A milestone and a whirlwind

Something monumental has happened. Not too long after laying my sleepy head down to rest after a bustling and energetic Friday, a quiet transformation took place. It was one of those almost-imperceptible metamorphoses that required next to no effort on my part, save for a little bit of patience. When I awakened on Saturday morning, everything was already in place. I rolled out of bed smiling at my accomplishment--I had turned twenty-one, and I had done it with my eyes closed.

In a bout of gluttony that only a twenty-first birthday can justify, I made not one, not even two, but three birthday cakes. I couldn't help myself. I'd like to think that the first two were more like pre-birthday cakes, since they were practically reduced to crumbs by the time my actual day rolled around. My day-of birthday cake was consumed in such a whirlwind at my party that I was unable to snap any shots of it, but I take that as a rousing sign of success. All that remained on Sunday was a small hunk of whiskey-soaked dark chocolate cake that Sara and I split as we lazily settled onto my couch to watch Across the Universe.

I leave you with recipes for my two pre-birthday cakes. One in particular deserves special attention in these days of bountiful gardens overflowing with zucchini. Just remember that since each will end up brushed with a tangy lemon glaze, it only makes sense to whip them both up at the same time. You can tell everyone you're revisiting your twenty-first birthday.

Drinking Fernet-Blanca like the best of 'em.

ZUCCHINI OLIVE OIL CAKE WITH CRUNCHY LEMON GLAZE

From Gina DePalma, pastry chef at Babbo

This cake is best suited for a sweet, early morning breakfast alongside a nice cup of hot coffee. Be sure to use good quality olive oil, since the rich olive flavor is really the focal point here. The original recipe calls for toasted walnuts, which I would have included if I had had any on hand. It's good without them, too.

FOR THE CAKE:

2 1/2 cups grated zucchini (I used one large zucchini, but you can also shoot for 2 small ones)

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

2 tsps ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground ginger

1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

1 3/4 cups granulated sugar

3 large eggs

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsps pure vanilla extract

FOR THE LEMON GLAZE:

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 cup confectioners' sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF and position a rack in the middle of the oven. Grease and flour a 10-cup Bundt pan, then tap out the excess flour.

2. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the eggs, sugar, and olive oil together until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula after each addition. Add the dry ingredients all together and beat at low speed until thoroughly combined. Turn the mixer to medium speed and mix for 30 seconds. Fold in zucchini with a rubber spatula until completely incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you go.

3. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth out the top with a spatula. Bake for 45-50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time to ensure even browning. I sometimes have to leave it in for an hour, but check it after 45 minutes or so to see how it's coming along, then check every 5 minutes after that. The cake is done when a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

4. When the cake is baking, prepare the lemon glaze. In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and granulated sugar, then whisk in the confectioners' sugar until the glaze is completely smooth.

5. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then carefully invert it onto a wire rack. Using a silicone pastry brush, spread the glaze evenly over the still-warm cake and let cool completely before serving.

LEMON-YOGURT CAKE WITH LEMON GLAZE

The storied cake from Orangette

I was able to muster up enough glaze from the zucchini olive oil cake to top this one, but should you feel the need to make this cake without its companion, just use the measurements for the lemon glaze from the previous recipe.

FOR THE CAKE:

1/2 cup plain, whole-milk yogurt

1 cup granulate sugar

3 large eggs

1 1/2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

2 tsp grated lemon zest

1/2 cup canola oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and line with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, sugar, and eggs, stirring until fluffy and well-blended. Add the flour, baking powder, and zest, mixing until just combined. Add the oil and stir to incorporate--be persistent here, because all the oil will mix in eventually. Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared pan.

3. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until the cake feels springy to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake.

4. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for about 20 minutes, then carefully turn it out of the pan and return to rack. When the cake is still slightly warm, brush the top with the lemon glaze. The glaze will melt slightly and should spread in a thin layer across the top. Allow glaze to set and cake to cool completely before serving.