On fall and Brussels sprouts

I absolutely love fall. As much as I bask in the delightful summer reverie of sun dresses and ripe peaches, nothing quite spells comfort and quiet elation like the warm reds, oranges, and browns of a crisp autumn day, paired with a handful of kettle corn or a cup of hot apple cider. But there is one part of the season that I feel is quite inappropriately under-appreciated. Whenever I mention to any number of friends my excitement at how fall ushers in a truly wondrous culinary bounty, in the form of butternut squashes and chestnuts and pumpkins and Brussels sprouts, their delighted faces shrivel into a puzzled grimace at the mention of the latter. Brussels sprouts? Really?

Perhaps it's because I can't remember eating Brussels sprouts as a child that I have no negative memories associated with them. I met my first Brussels sprout a few years ago after the peak period of my food pickiness, hot out of my mother's oven and fragrant with the sweet perfume of roasted garlic. I remember seeing those dainty little green orbs with their leaves slightly wilted and caramelized at the tips and popping them into my mouth like candies. I'm sure that just like so many other misunderstood vegetables--cabbage, broccoli, and asparagus come to mind--Brussels sprouts receive their negative attention from too many experiences in which the deliciously crisp and delicately bitter baby cabbages become unappetizingly soggy and regrettably noxious from overcooking. This pains me. As a person who welcomes fall into her life with open arms every September with nary a look back toward summer, I expect fall to bring me a heaping pile of Brussels sprouts along with all of the scarves, flannel, and alpaca sweaters appropriate for this time of year.

Fortunately for me, fall delivers. And perhaps I should thank those who don't delight in the wonders of the Brussels sprout, because that means I can eat more than my share. Or maybe, after tasting these, I'll convince people to come over to my side. It's greener over here anyway.

LEMONY CREAMED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CELERY AND SPINACH

Adapted from Gourmet

4 ribs of celery, cut diagonally into 1/3-inch slices

2 tablespoons of unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup milk (or, if you're really going for the gusto, use heavy cream like I did)

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 lb. spinach, ends trimmed

1 1/2 lbs. Brussels sprouts, trimmed, blanched for 12 minutes in boiling salted water or until tender, and drained*

*You could use two 10-ounce packages frozen and thawed, but I strongly recommend trying to find the freshest ones grown most closely to your home during this time of year (easier said than done in some cases). They'll taste better, though, I promise.

1. In a heavy saucepan, cook the celery in butter over moderately low heat, stirring, for 3 minutes or until it begins to soften. Stir in the thyme and flour and cook the mixture, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the milk or cream in a stream, whisking, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the spinach and simmer the sauce, stirring, until it is smooth and thickened. Stir in the zest, lemon juice, and the Brussels sprouts and simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the Brussels sprouts are heated through. Transfer the creamed Brussels sprouts to a heated serving dish and enjoy.