Ringing in the new year

Even though I have spent the last few years falling in love with Portland and all of its idiosyncrasies, I must confess that I am completely and hopelessly devoted to Colorado. After moving away, I have developed a much richer appreciation for Denver's thin, dry air and almost-unfailing sunshine, even during these chilly mid-winter days. I love the way the Rockies unfurl across the clear blue sky behind the long, flat stretches of corn and wheat fields to the west of I-25, and during the summer I go weak in the knees for juicy, drippy, sweet Palisade peaches or crisp and tender Olathe corn. Colorado remains among the most beautiful places I have ever seen, and upon every homecoming I discover new treasures nestled in Denver to deepen my long-standing infatuation with this charming city. Since being back for this round of vacations, I happened to find Denver Urban Homesteading's year-round, indoor farmer's market. I was searching for a place to buy local dairy products when I stumbled across DUH's website, and was delighted to have the opportunity to go to their brick-and-mortar market with my parents a week or so ago. This place definitely gets a spot on the list of wonderful Denver-based gems.

We went during the week, when most of the vendors were (unfortunately) not there. Nonetheless, we got to check out the space and are planning a return visit on an upcoming Saturday to see the market in full-swing (or, as full-swing as it gets during January). Despite the fact that only a few folks were there selling their wares when we made our visit, we certainly did not leave empty-handed. In the back room of the market was a bountiful display of handmade pastas from Pappardelle's, a local company familiar to my family for its presence at the summertime farmer's market near the Cherry Creek mall. Pappardelle's pastas are truly something special, and my mother has received heaps of praise from friends and colleagues for the dishes she prepares with the stuff. A fragrant and thick-cut lemon pepper linguine caught my eye, and I walked out of the market giddy to search for a dish that would let the pasta shine.

A few months back, I saved a recipe for a Brussels sprouts barigoule, a dish traditionally made with artichokes braised in white wine and served with aromatic vegetables. This spin on a classic barigoule highlights one of my favorite winter staples, and seemed like the perfect venue for my delicious, peppery ribbons of pasta.

Especially after a week of tour-de-force cake-baking (Christmas and my brother's birthday fall within six days of one another, and both obviously demand cake consumption), this recipe is a wonderful way to rest an overworked and overstuffed stomach. The leeks and Brussels sprouts marry well with white wine and lemon juice to create a light, tangy-sweet broth. Nutty, freshly shaved parmigiano-reggiano, a few pinches of salt, and some cracked black pepper round out the dish and make it a perfect way to ring in a healthy and full new year. May I resolve to eat as much of Pappardelle's pastas as I can before I pack up and return to the Pacific Northwest.

LINGUINE WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS BARIGOULE

Adapted from Gourmet

3/4 lb Brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered lengthwise

2 leeks

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided

3 tbsp unsalted butter, divided

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2/3 cup dry white wine

3 cups water

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tsp thyme

1/2 lb lemon pepper linguine

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/4 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano

1. Thinly slice leeks, then wash and drain in a colander. Cook leeks in 2 tbsp oil and 2 tbsp butter with 1/4 tsp each of salt and pepper in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add wine and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add water, lemon juice, thyme, and remaining tbsp each of oil and butter. Simmer briskly, covered, until liquid is reduced by half. Stir in Brussels sprouts and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally until sprouts are tender, about 5-7 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, cook linguine in a pot of boiling, salted water until almost al dente. Reserve 1 1/2 cups pasta-cooking water, then drain pasta.

3. Stir linguine into vegetables with reserved cooking water. Add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until pasta is al dente, 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and toss with parsley. Serve in shallow bowls with some of broth. Top with freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano.