Soup for all

I feel like I need to brace myself. After having just come over the hurdle of one intense, rich, and excessive bout of holiday eating, I'm gearing up for the second go-around. Christmas is inching ever-nearer, and I want to be ready for it. I have been craving foods that will keep me energized, grounded, and not-too-full in these weeks between holidays, so that when the time comes for even more brown-butter squash and goat cheese ravioli and my mom's unbelievably delicious (and unbelievably rich) dressing, my stomach will be well-rested enough to rise to the challenge.

So I'm taking it easy on the food front, and these days that means letting soup take center stage. One of the hardest parts of the winter months is the relative lack of abundance of fruits and veggies, compared to the overflowing produce bins at the farmer's market during the summer. Soup is a great way to get some of the best of the best of winter produce together in one pot, and is a warm reminder to take it slow, to savor, and to appreciate what the earth does bring us in this colder season.

My most recent CSA box delivered me with a bunch of carrots, a huge bulb of fennel, and the largest parsnip I have ever seen (this thing was seriously bigger than my forearm). This soup brings them all together in a delicately sweet, velvety mixture with the slightest hints of licorice from the roasted fennel. I definitely recommend putting the last few hunks of some toasted day-old French bread to mighty good use soaking up the last of the soup from the bottom of the bowl. A perfect way to celebrate December, before Christmas even comes upon us.

ROASTED FENNEL, CARROT, AND PARSNIP SOUP

Adapted from this recipe on Epicurious

• 2 medium fennel bulbs with fronds
• 1/2 pound carrots, cut into 1 inch pieces
• 1/2 pound parsnips, cut into 1 inch pieces
• 1 medium onion, quartered
• 3 garlic cloves
• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 2 1/2 cups vegetable broth
• 2 1/2 cups water
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds

Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in lowest position.

Chop enough fennel fronds to measure 1 tablespoon and reserve. Discard stalks and remaining fronds. Slice bulbs 1/4 inch thick and toss with carrots, parsnips, onion, garlic, 3 tablespoons oil, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Spread in a 4-sided sheet pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until browned and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Blend half of vegetables in a blender with broth until very smooth. Transfer to a medium saucepan. Repeat with remaining vegetables and water. Thin to desired consistency with extra water and simmer 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, finely grind fennel seeds in a grinder or using a mortar and pestle and stir into remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Serve soup drizzled with fennel oil and sprinkled with reserved fronds.