Victory and defeat

If you care about football, you already know by now that the Jets lost the AFC championship to the Steelers on Sunday. Normally, this is not the kind of information that would cause too much of a stir in my life, but that was before I started dating a New Yorker. Josh loves the Jets with such a brotherly sincerity that even I felt a little crushed when the clock ran out at the end of the fourth quarter, leaving a whole slew of men donning white and green to walk off the field utterly defeated. Even though I have somewhat of a soft spot for the Steelers, I couldn't help but sympathize with the Jets as well as the man sitting next to me on the couch, whose face all but beat out Rex Ryan's in terms of sheer dejection.

Luckily, there are cures for this kind of thing. Time is the best of course, but before the wounds of defeat close up, there's always chili. The version I made, from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, is richly sweet with a boost of flavor from smoky chili powder and strong, bitter espresso. I served it with raw milk aged gouda, cilantro, and avocado, and I could not have been more pleased with the results. This is one of those simple, one-pot meals that does most of the work on its own, so that no matter the situation, you can be sure of culinary victory. I know that was cheesy, but trust me, you won't care after you give this chili a shot. It's superb.

ESPRESSO BLACK BEAN CHILI
From How to Cook Everything Vegetarian

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
3 cups chopped ripe tomato (about 1 1/2 lbs. whole; if using canned, don't bother to drain)
1/2 to 1 cup freshly brewed espresso, 1 to 2 cups brewed coffee, or 2 tablespoons espresso powder
2 tablespoons chili powder
1/4 cup dark brown sugar or 3 tablespoons molasses
One 3-inch cinnamon stick
1 pound dried black beans, washed and picked over
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve:
Sour cream
Cilantro
Shredded cheese
Avocado

1. Put the oil in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.

2. Stir in the tomato, espresso, brown sugar, cinnamon, and beans; add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the liquid bubbles steadily but not violently. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans begin to soften, 30 to 40 minutes. Add a good pinch of salt and pepper.

3. Continue cooking until the beans are tender, anywhere from another 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more sugar, salt, or pepper. Serve or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.