6.12.2011

Asparagus two ways

My life is overflowing with asparagus. Such is one of the biggest joys of late spring. Walking into the farmers market, I see bunches of crisp, slender asparagus spears poised and ready to be whisked away to some lucky shopper's skillet, grill, or stockpot. I even came home on Thursday to an unexpected CSA delivery (I thought my last one was two weeks prior), and lo and behold, a hefty bundle of asparagus (strung tightly together and about the size of my calf) sat awaiting me.

Finding myself with such a bounty of asparagus--with much gratitude, I might add--I wanted to share two ways I've enjoyed eating the pencil-thin spears that make us all swoon for late spring. The first is an asparagus risotto whose recipe my dad shared with me on my recent surprise trip back to Colorado; the second is the result of my own late evening craving for something bright, green, and quick to prepare. These recipes are similar in their basic premises, but differ pretty widely on flavor. One is laced with salt, nutty parmesan cheese, and homemade onion and asparagus stock, and the other has tangy notes of balsamic vinegar and woodsy, almost-caramelized mushrooms. Luckily, with all of the asparagus around, you don't really have to choose which one to make--there's plenty for both.


CREAMY ASPARAGUS RISOTTO
From Russ Parsons' book How to Pick a Peach (and made vegetarian)

Come to think of it, I had never made risotto prior to this. This recipe does demand quite a bit of attention, and there was a moment when I thought my arm might fall off from all the stirring. Don't let that discourage you. There are many reasons to stick with this recipe--principally, the unbelievable satisfaction of diving into the rich and tender final product. Plus, haven't you been meaning to work on your triceps, anyway? Yeah, me too.

1 1/4 pounds of thin asparagus
1 onion, minced with trimmings reserved
9 cups water
4 tbsp butter
2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper
3 tbsp freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives

1. Cut off the bottom 1 to 1 1/2 inches of the asparagus spears. Thinly slice the bottoms and add them to a large saucepan along with the onion trimmings. Cover with water and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for at least 30 minutes. When you have a mild stock, strain into a bowl and return to the saucepan. Keep at a low simmer and reserve for the risotto.

2. Cut away the asparagus tips and reserve them. Slice the remaining stalks into 1/4" rounds.

3. Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet and add the onions and asparagus rounds. Cook until the onion softens but before it begins to brown, around 5 minutes.

4. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until all the kernels are opaque, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and stir until it evaporates. Ladle approximately 1 1/2 cups of the stock into the rice and cook, stirring constantly until the bottom of the pan is almost dry. Then, add another 1/2 to 3/4 cup stock and cook, stirring, until it evaporates.

5. Keep cooking this way, adding more stock in 1/2 to 3/4 cup increments, until the rice begins to swell and become tender. Stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and the reserved asparagus tips. Continue cooking until the rice kernels are swollen and completely tender, approximately 20-22 minutes total. Do not cook the mixture dry; the final texture should be thick and creamy with slightly thickened liquid. As the risotto cooks, put four shallow, oven-safe bowls in the oven at 200ºF for serving.

6. Remove the skillet from the heat and add remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, cheese, and chives. Stir into the risotto until the butter and cheese melt. Add salt and pepper to taste and spoon into the pre-heated bowls. Serve immediately.


MUSHROOM AND ASPARAGUS LINGUINE
For 2 people.

I started the asparagus in the oven to get the tips a little crisp the way I like 'em, then finished them off in the skillet. 

1/2 pound asparagus, woody stems removed (you can discard these or use them for asparagus stock, like the one above!)
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
3 tbsp thinly sliced green garlic (green and white parts--use green onions if you can't find green garlic)
1/2 cup roughly chopped mushrooms (I used criminis, but any mushroom will do)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp lemon juice
1/2 pound linguine
Salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.

2. Cut the asparagus into 1 1/2" pieces. Spread the asparagus in a single layer on a baking sheet and toss with the olive oil until well-coated. Roast in the oven until slightly tender but not fully cooked, about 8 minutes.

3. While the asparagus is in the oven, generously salt the pot of boiling water and add the linguine. Cook the pasta until ever-so-slightly shy of al dente, about 9-10 minutes. Drain over a bowl, reserving about 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid.

4. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced green garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms, stir to coat with the butter, and cook for 5 minutes. When the mushrooms begin to brown, add the vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed and the mushrooms are slightly caramelized.

5. Add the asparagus pieces, linguine, and pasta cooking liquid to the skillet, stirring to incorporate the mushrooms and green garlic. Add the lemon juice and cook until the liquid has mostly evaporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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